Tackling Ford & GM 10-Speed Valve Body Problems, Failing Batteries & More!

Ten-speeds have been flooding the shops lately, and we are familiar with most of the problems associated with them, or so it seems. We have experienced problems such as the CDF drum sleeve movement, cylinder clutch container failure (also known as “stove pipe failure”), the main shaft issues with plugs loosening, overheating with incorrect ATF level, speed sensor issues and finally incorrect assembly. Those are just a few of the more common issues during and after the repair we often see. Our article today covers a few dilemmas we face during repair of 10-speed units, which include the Ford 10R60, 10R80, 10R90, 10R140, the GM Gen. 1 and 2 10L60, 10L80, 10L90 and the Allison^® 10L1000.

Buying a New OE Valve Body vs. Reusing the Original Valve Body

Purchasing a new Ford 10-speed valve body has not been all that great lately, and a GM 10-speed valve body is hard to find because of backorders, but that is improving.

If you need a 10L1000 valve body, it’s important to buy the latest updated valve body #24048701, if you can find it. The early valve body is not workable to reuse, as it typically has a major failure of the main pressure regulator valve. But be aware that the late valve body does not seem much better!

We will address the Ford 10-speed valve bodies since they have been inexpensive to date. For some time now on the forums, shops claim to have gotten used core valve bodies when buying new OE valve bodies, and that may be true in some cases for whatever reason. So how do we tell the difference? One way is to examine the color of the separator plate shown here in (Figure 1). The separator plate you get today with a new valve body is light brown in color. That’s a change from the yellow color Ford previously used, so if you get a “new” core with a yellow plate, something’s up!

Figure 1 – Ford 10-Speed Separator Plates

Original Valve Body: Where to Pay Attention

If you are thinking about reusing the original valve body the unit came in with, price aside, that might be a great choice. Even if a transmission comes in the door with CDF drum failure along with shift flares and bumpy downshifts, you’re probably fine. Drum sleeve movement and sealing ring damage are caused by shift issues, not the valve body. If you do need to repair a failed drum or (even better) want to prevent future problems, Sonnax offers CDF drum saver kit 129910-01K.

The primary areas of concern when examining any valve body (new or used) are the solenoids, valves and the condition of the separator plate. Impregnated plate filters come loose (Figure 2) and cause valves to stick, so pay attention. You can currently buy a new OE plate from Ford.

Figure 2 – Loose/Ripped Impregnated Filter Displaced on Separator Plate

Ten-speed valve bodies have casting-integrated, direct-acting solenoids (CIDAS). The solenoids are held tightly into the valve body with retainer clips and should be examined for bore tightness. These solenoids work directly on the clutch control valve and only produce clutch pressure with current, so 10-speed transmissions have no movement unplugged from the electrical source. Solenoids rarely fail, but they do occasionally. Used solenoids are also generally available in the aftermarket. To securely hold the heavy solenoids in place and prevent spring retainer collapse, Sonnax offers solenoid stabilization retainers 105740-19K.

Valves and bores do sometimes wear, so pay attention to the main pressure regulator valve, TCC priority valve, TCC regulator valve and boost valve. The latch valves are also showing up in trouble — they get beat up by the retainer clip. A variety of Sonnax repairs are available to address both moderate and severe wear. See related parts listed with this article.

Position Pump Seal Properly

This mistake has been reported regularly on the forums. When installing a valve body, there is a steel-rubber pump seal that goes between the valve body and transmission case (Figure 3). Leaving this pump seal out or mispositioned will cause no movement and no line pressure.

Figure 3 – Ensure Pump Seal in Proper Position

Failing Batteries

One thing about electronics that has stayed the same is batteries do not last forever!

A common issue with 10R80 and 10R140 work trucks is the battery needs a charge after the vehicle’s been in the shop a few days of repair. That is the first sign to take a more in-depth look at the vehicle’s batteries. After repair, the unit does not seem as if it is adapting properly and may experience harsh engagements or erratic upshifts and downshifts. The rebuilder starts thinking they have a valve body problem. However, the next day the truck will initially have a few drivability issues, but as you drive and it reaches normal operating temperature, it seems to be okay. These are signs the vehicle might have a failing battery (or multiple). Batteries in both Fords and GMs only last about three years before needing replacement. So do not forget to check the basics!

Thank you to Caleb Emberson of Straight Line Transmission of Greenbrier, Ark.

Jim Mobley is a Sonnax technical communication specialist. He is a member of the Sonnax TASC Force (Technical Automotive Specialties Committee), a group of recognized industry technical specialists, transmission rebuilders and Sonnax Transmission Company technicians.